The differences and my favorite of each category!
First you must decide if your hair needs increased strength or moisture. I have noticed that clients and customers run straight to protein treatments when they feel they need a deep conditioning. I understand that this is just another learned behavior of years of Relaxed hair knowledge. But in my journey to re-educate everyone, this is a major rule that needs to be removed from your minds. Let’s take a dive into the different types of deep conditioners or hair masks. They are not one in the same. Check this out!
Types of Deep Conditioners/ Hair Masks:
Protein Treatments
Hydration Treatments (Moisture)
Scalp Treatments
Bond Builder Treatments
• Protein. This is the most important ingredient if your hair is in need of structure. Use ONLY if your hair is limp or lifeless. Protein is a nutrient that your body is made up of and needs multiple times a day. Protein will help your hair grow as well as build, strengthen and repair keratin. If your already feels hard stay away from protein treatments. It will make it harder and the hair will break.
Examples:
• Moisture/Hydration. Your hair is moisturized if water remains in your hair after it is dried. To achieve this pick a deep conditioner that has ingredients that will hydrate your hair. Use moisturizing conditioners ONLY if your hair is breaking or has color.
Examples:
•Scalp Health Deep Conditioners. If you are experiencing dry, itchy scalp this is your best option. This deep conditioner was made for those looking for relief from red, irritated scalps. A deep conditioner that is highly-effective at fighting scaling, itching and flaking. It is an important step in achieving a clear, calm, dandruff-free scalp.
Examples:
•Bond Builders. Great for repairing damaged hair. This highly moisturizing, reparative conditioner protects and repairs damaged hair, split ends, and breakage by re-linking broken bonds and strengthening your strands.
Examples:
More information you should know!
• Emollients and Humectants. Your moisturizing and/or protein deep conditioner should contain lubricants that will help coat the hair for added slip and help to seal the cuticle which in turn will help prevent your hair from losing moisture and help alleviate frizz.
• Penetrating. A good moisturizing and/or protein deep conditioner should “go deep” into the hair shaft and stay there (see section below for more).
INGREDIENTS THAT “GO DEEP”
Here are some ingredients you should look for in your deep conditioner that will penetrate the hair shaft because of their small molecular weight…
• Hydrolyzed Protein (for strength) • Water • Gylcerin (for moisture) • Olive Oil (extra virgin) • Argan Oil • Coconut Oil • Avocado Oil • Castor Oil
INGREDIENTS WITH SEALING PROPERTIES
Here are some emollients and humectants that will stay on top of the hair to seal in moisture because of their high molecular weight…
• Shea Butter • Vitamin B5 (panthenol) • Mango Butter • Fatty alcohols (ex: lauryl, cetyl, stearyl, cetearyl, lanolin, isocetyl and isostearyl act as softeners for your hair) • Aloe Vera
TIPS FOR DEEP CONDITIONING:
1. Deep condition after every shampoo. 2. Add heat with a steamer or hooded dryer for at least 30 minutes to open your hair shaft to penetrate and increase absorption rate (time depends on hair porosity). 3. Rinse with cool water to close the cuticle and prep for styling.
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